mardi 25 mars 2008

Expérience au coeur du communautarisme américain

Etats-Unis, pays religieux s'il en est. Avec les multiples églises de la Bible belt, les Mormons dans l'Utah, les Quakers dans l'Etat de New York, on trouve aussi les Amish en Pennsylvanie. L'idée fut lancée d'y passer un week-end !
Direction le comté de Lancaster, pour deux jours complètement anachroniques.

Les Amish sont une communauté protestante qui a décidé de vivre repliée sur elle-même, pour fuir les persécutions consécutives à la Réforme. D'origine suisse-allemande-alsacienne, ils sont arrivés au XVIIème siècle aux Etats-Unis, pour y trouver leur terre promise. D'où le nom de Strasburg pour un village que nous avons visité ! Ils refusent donc en théorie tout contact avec le monde extérieur, vivent sans sortir de leur communauté, sont très pieux... Par exemple, ils n'utilisent pas l'électricité du monde extérieur, les enfants vont dans leurs propres écoles. Ce sont quasi-exclusivement des fermiers, mais quand on s'approche d'un peu plus près, on se rend compte du fil sur lequel ils marchent en permanence.

Ils ne se servent pas de l'électricité du monde extérieur mais produisent la leur avec du diesel et du propane, ont des panneaux solaires, des batteries, donc ont des frigos ... La morale est sauve, car aucun fil ne les relie au monde extérieur. Suivant la même logique, ils n'ont ni télévision, ni radio, ni voiture, mais à la place des buggys "pour ne pas pouvoir se déplacer très loin et ainsi ne pas rompre le lien avec la famille/communauté". Ces buggys furent le point culminant de notre voyage ! Les routes du comté sont élargies, permettant aux Amish de rouler sans se faire doubler de tous les sens par les voitures. Leurs vêtements sont fabriqués par la mère de famille, uniquement dans des couleurs unies, les hommes portent des chapeaux de paille et les femmes une espèce de capeline blanche.

Un petit truc pour trouver une maison Amish : "quand du linge sèche sur un fil hors de la maison". Ce qui nous semble habituel en France relève ici du "tourisme", encore une différence entre les modes de vie américains et français. Au royaume du sèche-linge, il est difficile de trouver un séchoir à linge !

Nous avons dormi le samedi soir dans une chambre d'hôtes, tenue par des Amish "light", puisqu'ils sont encontact avec le monde extérieur, et qu'ils ont de l'électricité dans cette partie de la maison... De même, ils utilisent un téléphone dans le jardin, ont un compte en banque. On avait d'ailleurs pu brancher l'ordinateur pour regarder le film Witness (pour rester dans l'ambiance), mais échec total de cette mission, pour une sombre histoire de codecs...

Mais nous avons été quelque peu gênés en discutant avec le grand-père. Il semblait très désabusé par rapport à la nouvelle génération, qui utilise des téléphones portables par exemple. Il faut dire que les jeunes, avant de décider d'être baptisés et de rentrer dans la communauté, ont la possibilité de voir le monde "réel", de conduire une voiture, de s'habiller comme en 2008. Puis ils décident soit de retourner dans la communauté, soit de partir vivre dans le monde extérieur. Mais presque 95% des jeunes restent Amish, puisqu'ils ne connaissent pas le monde extérieur, et devraient alors couper les ponts avec leur famille...

De même, le dimanche matin, la famille recevait la communauté pour l'office, dans la grange (160 personnes, et plein de buggys). On a alors du garer les voitures de façon à ce qu'elles ne soient pas visibles de la route... Nous nous sommes alors demandés si cette famille n'était pas un peu en marge de la communauté, puisque ne vivant pas selon leurs principes stricts.

Puis, pour se remettre dans le bain de la vie réelle, direction Hershey, pour visiter l'usine de chocolat de la grande marque américaine ! Ambiance un peu Disneyland ! »



Message écrit par Anne-Sophie, notre sciences po préférée
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Bah ça y est, je crois que vous êtes devenu Amishophiles...le sujet reveins souvent dans vos voyages...amish par ci, Amish par là...Une conversion sous peu? :-P

J'adore les photos de train en noir et blanc...tres....Amish!!

bon je vais manger du choco!!
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